design your own pelmet

Pelmet Guidance

Surveying the situation prior to the measuring

This guidance is intended for those rooms which have 2 or more windows

Survey the windows in question by standing back from the windows and looking at them objectively either from the centre of the room or as though you have just walked through the door into the room.

If you have a pair of windows either next to each other (side by side) or split by a chimney breast / pillar or wall, they would in the main be treated as a pair, as such the variables may only be the widths of the windows in which case they may require different fullness’s.

Also if one window has patio or French doors and the other a radiator under it which you may feel it advisable to have shorter curtains in which case each pair would be a different length.

If it is your intention use a patterned material it is advisable to ensure the patterns run across / match through both pairs ( inc pelmets and valances)

In effect not much different to matching wallpaper which when you walk into a room normally isn’t noticeable unless it hasn’t been matched in which case it looks awful!

If you have three or more windows, and there happens to be an odd one, don’t ignore it!

As these windows need to be addressed in a manner which compliments the others with out necessarily dictating the terms


Measuring Instructions

Stand about 3 metres back and look at the window objectively.

Is it your intention just to dress the window with a pelmet?

Or is it to be used in conjunction with a blind that you either have, or are intending to acquire, in which case are you putting the blind in the recess or outside the recess?

Note. If you are contemplating having a Roman Blind, because they have a fairly deep ‘stack’ when raised, they are better outside the recess and the head rail / batton positioned 250 mm above the head of the window

Do you have an existing curtain rail in place and are you happy with it?

Does it get the curtain fullness / material back far enough out of the window

Would you prefer it was longer?

Note. Remember the wider the window, the more fabric is required to cover it, which in turn means the track needs to be extended further past the recess to accommodate the curtain when drawn back

Is there a wall or unit near one end of the window which is restricting the length of rail?

If so, it is common to make both ends equal or this will affect the symmetry of the window and throw the balance off centre.

Note. Designs that are shown are a guide sometimes they require adjustment to match dimensions of your pelmet.

Width of Pelmet (A)

needs to be 40 to 50 mms longer than the existing or proposed curtain track which in effect will allow a clearance of 15 to 20 mm clearance at each end between the end of the track/rail and the inside of the pelmet.

Tolerances: ±5mm / Restrictions: (Min 600mm to Max 2400mm)

Projection of Pelmet (B)

Distance back to front also known as the return or depth of the pelmet. This measurement will depend on what you are using the pelmet for, if its purely decorative then the projection will be minimal and if you are having the roundered ends they will be dependant on which radius you are using. (the website order sheet will respond to a negative input)

Tolerances: ±5mm / Restrictions: (Min 65mm to Max 170mm)

Minimum Height of Pelmet (C)

This measurement is very important as it governs every thing you want to cover and hide. Architrave / mouldings / trickle vents / tracks / curtain headings etc

Tolerances: ±5mm / Restrictions: (Min 100mm to Max 350mm)

Maximum Height of Pelmet (D)

depending on the width of the pelmet and shape you choose this will vary between 50 and 100 mm

Tolerances: ±5mm / Restrictions: (Min 100mm to Max 350mm)

Fitting Instructions

Our pelmets are manufactured with top boards that are the back bone and main strength of the pelmet. It can be used to support a curtain track or blind.

The rest of the structure Face, Ends and Curved Corners if required are attached to it.

We supply ‘L’ brackets to support this complete with screws and rawl plugs.

If required we will supply *spacers (foc) to compensate for the bracket thickness discrepancy.
*Spacers are only valid (foc) providing they are requested with initial order, this is to avoid postage and admin.

Your pelmet will be delivered with the designated correct number and size brackets required to support the structure. It will also have the correct amount of screws and raw-plugs to fix this to 90% of most walls.

pelmets are supplied with all brackets and screws
pelmet with brackets and screws

It is recommended the end brackets are placed between 100 mm to 150mm from the ends the brackets should be between 1000mm to 1200 mm apart. Other brackets provided should be fitted an equal distance between these. The number of brackets is variable dependent on the length, height and projection of the pelmet which effects the weight.

On average we supply either a centre or intermediate brackets when the pelmet is longer than 1400 mm. For tools you will require a Hammer drill, Spirit level and Philips screwdriver.

top board are the back bone and main strength of the pelmet
top boards that are the back bone and main strength of the pelmet

Guidance on Painting

If it is your intention to paint the pelmet or attach / glue an alternative face material to it, we would advise you to rub the face of the pelmet down using a 120 grit sandpaper.

This will scratch the current surface and in effect it will offer better adhesion qualities for either the paint or the glue

Paint is best applied by a mini roller as this will give a better finish.

Please try your paint or stain on an small area first or on a sample of pelmet material to check that the service is not damaged, especially with veneered pelmets. The veneer is attached to the pelmet surface with adhesive and there is a small risk of chemical incompatibility.


Covering your Pelmet in Fabric

If it is your intention to cover the pelmet yourself using your own material and you are stapling the material on to the pelmet please ensure that the staples are not longer than 5mm. We use commercial pneumatic staple guns to do this. Some of the clients we supply use electric staple guns or glue.
The pelmet itself is made of a composite material (especially for all rounded and chamfered ends) or a far eastern ply for those with square / box ends.

We are currently investigating an option of using a double sided sticky tape which should aid our DIY customers. We will be doing trials on this in the near future and offer this to customers to see how they get on with it.


Payment - Paypal

We are currently using paypal as our payment provider, if you don't have or want an account with Paypal thats fair enough. There should be an option underneath the login when you go to payment labeled something like "Pay with debit or credit cards" you can click there enter your card details in the form and just tick that you don't wish to create an account.

They move the design around occasionally and the experience differs slightly according to where you are in the world and what device your using and they seem sometimes to be more or less pushy about trying to sell you a paypal account.
If you having issues with payment, email or call Graham using the details below.


Hope this helps if you have any other questions please don’t hesitate to contact me.


Bay Windows

Unfortunately we have found that trying to create pelmets to fit bay windows isn't practical online. Because of their complexity, we are at this point of time unable to offer a satisfactory service to provide pelmets for bay windows.

Having the correct curtain track installed is very important. Bending a plastic rail inside the bay is the cheapest and easiest option.

design your own pelmet