There is further information on our frequently asked questions page.
Surveying the situation prior to the measuring
This guidance is intended for those rooms which have 2 or more windows
Survey the windows in question by standing back from the windows and looking at them objectively either from the centre of the room or as though you have just walked through the door into the room.
If you have a pair of windows either next to each other (side by side) or split by a chimney breast / pillar or wall, they would in the main be treated as a pair, as such the variables may only be the widths of the windows in which case they may require different fullness’s.
Also if one window has patio or French doors and the other a radiator under it which you may feel it advisable to have shorter curtains in which case each pair would be a different length.
If it is your intention use a patterned material it is advisable to ensure the patterns run across / match through both pairs ( inc pelmets and valances)
In effect not much different to matching wallpaper which when you walk into a room normally isn’t noticeable unless it hasn’t been matched in which case it looks awful!
If you have three or more windows, and there happens to be an odd one, don’t ignore it!
As these windows need to be addressed in a manner which compliments the others with out necessarily dictating the terms
Stand about 3 metres back and look at the window objectively.
Is it your intention just to dress the window with a pelmet?
Or is it to be used in conjunction with a blind that you either have, or are intending to acquire, in which case are you putting the blind in the recess or outside the recess?
Note. If you are contemplating having a Roman Blind, because they have a fairly deep ‘stack’ when raised, they are better outside the recess and the head rail / batton positioned 250 mm above the head of the window
Do you have an existing curtain rail in place and are you happy with it?
Does it get the curtain fullness / material back far enough out of the window
Would you prefer it was longer?
Note. Remember the wider the window, the more fabric is required to cover it, which in turn means the track needs to be extended further past the recess to accommodate the curtain when drawn back
Is there a wall or unit near one end of the window which is restricting the length of rail?
If so, it is common to make both ends equal or this will affect the symmetry of the window and throw the balance off centre.
Note. Designs that are shown are a guide sometimes they require adjustment to match dimensions of your pelmet.
- Width of Pelmet (A)
needs to be 40 to 50 mms longer than the existing or proposed curtain track which in effect will allow a clearance of 15 to 20 mm clearance at each end between the end of the track/rail and the inside of the pelmet.
Tolerances: ±5mm / Restrictions: (Min 600mm to Max 2400mm)
- Projection of Pelmet (B)
Distance back to front also known as the return or depth of the pelmet. This measurement will depend on what you are using the pelmet for, if its purely decorative then the projection will be minimal and if you are having the roundered ends they will be dependant on which radius you are using. (the website order sheet will respond to a negative input)
Tolerances: ±5mm / Restrictions: (Min 65mm to Max 170mm)
- Minimum Height of Pelmet (C)
This measurement is very important as it governs every thing you want to cover and hide. Architrave / mouldings / trickle vents / tracks / curtain headings etc
Tolerances: ±5mm / Restrictions: (Min 100mm to Max 350mm)
- Maximum Height of Pelmet (D)
depending on the width of the pelmet and shape you choose this will vary between 50 and 100 mm
Tolerances: ±5mm / Restrictions: (Min 100mm to Max 350mm)
Very large Pelmets
We can make very large pelmets, but you need to phone or email us with what you want:
- Exact length, projection, depth.
- What shape do you want it?
- What finish do you want it white primer / undercoat or did you want us to cover it in your own material?
- Where you want it delivered
We recommend with longer pelmets they have boxed / square returns.
We make large pelmets in thicker 5.5mm Far Eastern Ply (Better, stronger and lighter than MDF)
The face will probably need to be joined. However we endeavor to have the top board made in one length, solid softwood 18-20 mm thick to ensure the pelmet retains its strength in the longer length.
We need to know your delivery / postcode as the carriage costs go up significantly on longer parcels (Especially over 3 meters) as the couriers calculate on volumetric sizes and a two-man service.
When we have all the relevant information, we will be able to quote and edit your order accordingly.
Our pelmets are manufactured with top boards that are the back bone and main strength of the pelmet. It can be used to support a curtain track or blind.
The rest of the structure Face, Ends and Curved Corners if required are attached to it.
We supply ‘L’ brackets to support this complete with screws and rawl plugs.
If required we will supply *spacers (foc) to compensate for the bracket thickness discrepancy.
*Spacers are only valid (foc) providing they are requested with initial order, this is to avoid postage and admin.
Your pelmet will be delivered with the designated correct number and size brackets required to support the structure. It will also have the correct amount of screws and raw-plugs to fix this to 90% of most walls.
It is recommended the end brackets are placed between 100 mm to 150mm from the ends the brackets should be between 1000mm to 1200 mm apart. Other brackets provided should be fitted an equal distance between these. The number of brackets is variable dependent on the length, height and projection of the pelmet which effects the weight.
On average we supply either a centre or intermediate brackets when the pelmet is longer than 1400 mm. For tools you will require a Hammer drill, Spirit level and Philips screwdriver.
Guidance on Painting
If it is your intention to paint the pelmet or attach / glue an alternative face material to it, we would advise you to rub the face of the pelmet down using a 120 grit sandpaper.
This will scratch the current surface and in effect it will offer better adhesion qualities for either the paint or the glue
Paint is best applied by a mini roller as this will give a better finish.
Please try your paint or stain on an small area first or on a sample of pelmet material to check that the service is not damaged, especially with veneered pelmets. The veneer is attached to the pelmet surface with adhesive and there is a small risk of chemical incompatibility.
Covering your Pelmet in Fabric
If it is your intention to cover the pelmet yourself using your own material and you are stapling the material on to the pelmet please ensure that the staples are not longer than 5mm.
We use commercial pneumatic staple guns to do this. Some of the clients we supply use electric staple guns or glue.
The pelmet itself is made of a composite material (especially for all rounded and chamfered ends) or a far eastern ply for those with square / box ends.
We are currently investigating an option of using a double sided sticky tape which should aid our DIY customers. We will be doing trials on this in the near future and offer this to customers to see how they get on with it.
When you are supplying us with your own fabric for us to cover your pelmet, please tell us:
- which is front and back
- which is the top and bottom
- what direction you want the pile to run if applicable
This seems silly when we say it here but with geometric designs and reversable fabrics its sometimes not obvious.
You can always call us to discuss, Graham likes talking and although he goes on a bit sometimes he knows a lot about haberdashery, he has been doing it for decades.
Payment - Paypal
We are currently using paypal as our payment provider, if you don't have or want an account with Paypal thats fair enough. There should be an option underneath the login when you go to payment labeled something like "Pay with debit or credit cards" you can click there enter your card details in the form and just tick that you don't wish to create an account.
They move the design around occasionally and the experience differs slightly according to where you are in the world and what device your using and they seem sometimes to be more or less pushy about trying to sell you a paypal account.
If you having issues with payment, email or call Graham using the details below.
Unpacking and receiving
Our packaging is your assurance and our insurance that the contents are delivered in good condition.
When you receive your pelmet from the couriers please check all-over that the pelmet packaging is not damaged. If packaging looks damaged in a manner that would concern you, that the contents may be effected, inform the courier, sign for it accordingly, it’s imperative that you take a photo at this time.
If you sign for the goods ‘Received as in good condition’ it is extremely difficult or impossible for us to pursue a claim.
In most cases it takes as long to package our pelmets as it takes to make them.
Please take care when unpacking it, as the staples we use to make the crate are sharp and damage can occur to the pelmet if unpacked without due care and attention. It can take 15 / 20+ minutes to unpack the contents. Don’t rush it!
We screw end panels on our packaging to protect the returns of the pelmets against damage, these will need removing first (You will require a Philips screwdriver to do this).
Fittings (Brackets, screws and raw-plugs) are attached to the inside of the pelmet.
Please note there is a protective film on the face of the pelmet, you will need to remove this.
If it is your intention to paint the pelmet. We recommend that you lightly sandpaper the area you intend painting using a 120 grit sandpaper, this will give the composite a better key for paint adhesion. You may require a primer.
Unfortunately we have found that trying to create pelmets to fit bay windows isn't practical online. Because of their complexity, we are at this point of time unable to offer a satisfactory service to provide pelmets for bay windows.
Having the correct curtain track installed is very important. Bending a plastic rail inside the bay is the cheapest and easiest option.
There are mamy things to consider when fitting blinds, curtain rails and pelmets to a bay window, here are some of them:
Bay Windows come in all shapes, sizes and angles, also you need to take into account the curtains required which will either be sill (or just past) or full length down to the floor.
This information is important as it relates to the type of track required to support the curtains. There are several different types of curtain tracks available for bay windows.
An uncorded manual UPVC track such as Swish Sologlyde or deluxe would initially be your cheapest option. Though if you wished to go corded the Swish Superluxe track is a good starter.
Most corded tracks can only be used on bays with an internal bend they aren't designed for reverse bends. Though I would recommend that if you decide to have a corded track, it is better to have them corded independently from each end allowing drawing the curtains to be drawn to the center of bay, or part thereof.
The reason for this is, with a bay as the sun comes round you may only need to draw some of the curtains cross the window.
Also it doesn't load the track and cording system as much as if both sides are done together.
The infrastructure required in a bay to hold the pelmet or valance and possibly even the curtain track (Top fix) is a very important structure to get right as it has to be deep enough to accommodate the track (Taking into account the radii required for the gliders to glide round the bend also the depth and fullness of the curtains when both being drawn together or bunched back to stack.
On average the board width would never be less than 150 mm deep.
Hope this helps if you have any other questions please don’t hesitate to contact me.